Rabbit Reproduction

Rabbits are induced ovulators. This means that female rabbits (called "does") do not have a strongly-defined oestrous cycle ("heats"). Instead, they have regular periods every 4-6 days in which they are receptive to males. Within 10 hours of mating, ovulation occurs. Both uterine horns work in rabbits, so she can carry young in both sides. Because the mesometrium is a major fat storage organ in a rabbit's body, build up around the ovaries can occur if a doe is left unbred too long. This can result in lowered fertility or infertility. If you do not plan on breeding your rabbit, it is best to have her spayed by a knowledgeable rabbit vet.

 

Male rabbits (called "bucks") have no part in taking care of the young. After mating with the doe, the buck will fall off of her and may grunt then stomp his feet. This is perfectly normal! Bucks should not be left in with does after breeding is finished unless you have an appropriate colony setup. 

The mother rabbit will build a nest and line it with fur. In the wild, rabbits dig burrows in which to make their nest, and they collect forage to place in the nest along with their fur. Hormones released near birth loosen the fur on the mother so she can pluck it out easily. Don't be alarmed if your expectant mother plucks her belly nearly bald!

 

Rabbits give birth around 28-34 days after mating. 31-32 days seems to be the most common for ours. Young rabbits (called "kits") are born furless, deaf, and blind. They are completely dependent upon their mother for the first several weeks of their life.  While our Harlequins are so calm and also used to us, so we can be near them when they give birth, if an expectant doe is stressed by your presence or something else, she may eat her young. Lack of proper nutrients is another reason a doe may eat her young. Try to ensure she has a well-balanced diet and a quiet place to give birth and raise her young. Nestboxes designed for rabbits and lined with straw or hay work well. 

Does feed their kits once or twice a day via 8-10 nipples. In the wild, this is a defensive mechanism to prevent predators from locating the nest. They have very rich milk, allowing their kits to grow fast despite the infrequent feedings. Once she is done feeding, the doe will typically lick a few kits to stimulate urination. Then the urination of the few kits will stimulate the others to urinate. The doe will leave the nest and not return until it is time for the next feeding. Domestic rabbits may jump in their nest more often when they feel it is threatened.

Kits will start opening their eyes around 10 days old. Soon after, they will start trying to really move around the nest and may start trying to jump out of it. Once they are out of the nest, the kits will start nibbling on the hay and pellets, but they still need their mother's milk for a while longer! Wild rabbits wean their kits by four weeks of age, but domestic rabbits benefit from being left with their mother longer, if the mother will tolerate them (some won't!). This transitional stage from milk to solid food is a dangerous time in a kit's life. As the beneficial bacteria in the gut have to adapt to the new diet, pathogenic bacteria or parasites can invade and thrive, causing potentially deadly bloat and gastrointestinal stasis. We like to keep a very close eye on kits from the time eyes open to about six weeks of age. Clear, jelly-like poops are a sign that something is direly wrong! We  give free fed hay to mothers and kits and try to reduce stress as much as possible.

 

Weaning off the doe is a stressful time in a kit's life. Ideally, it is best to take the mother from the kits and leave the kits with each other for at least a week before starting to separate them. We like to separate them into small groups so they don't immediately go to being alone. 

 

Sexual maturity occurs, on average, between 5-8 months, with smaller breeds maturing faster. Keep in mind that some precocious bucks may mature very fast and be able to breed their mother or littermates! Separate by sex no later than 10 weeks to be safe, though usually a buck's testicles don't drop until around 12 weeks.

Female Reproductive System

Credit: VeterianKey

Male Reproductive System

Credit: VeterianKey