Contrary to some pet site recommendations, a diet that is high in fresh greens can be detrimental to domestic rabbits. Rabbits in the wild eat primarily grass and other extremely fibrous plants. Fresh grass can carry deadly diseases from wild rabbits. Hay is dried fibrous plants and is a safer alternative. Pellets are made primarily of hay!

The main portion of a rabbit's diet should consist of a good quality pellet. Pellets should be fresh, be around 16% to 18% protein (depending on the breed and the rabbit's use), and have about 18% fiber content. The ability of your local store to get fresh pellets is more important than the specific brand, but avoid brands with extras in them. Some brands have various colorful bits, seeds, etc. Those are bad for your rabbit. If  your rabbit is a breeding rabbit, use an alfalfa based pellet, as it will need the extra calcium and calories. If your rabbit is a pet rabbit, a timothy based pellet may be more appropriate. We like Heinhold and Manna Pro feeds if you can find these fresh locally.

Fresh hay is beneficial to rabbits in that it helps them produce heat, relieves boredom, and it helps keep hairballs from forming. Timothy, oat, or grass hay should be used. Avoid alfalfa hay for pets and bucks as the rabbit already gets plenty of alfalfa in its regular pellets, and alfalfa is high in calcium and energy. Pregnant or nursing does and kits can have alfalfa hay. Also, be sure not to feed straw. Straw has little nutritional value.

Rabbits enjoy treats, and they will eat most any vegetation. However, certain treats are better than others, and some treats can even be harmful. The best treats are fresh fruits and vegetables such as apple slices, baby carrots (or carrot slices), and other such treats that are not overly high in water content nor sugar. Treats that are too water (melon, iceberg lettuce, etc.) can cause the rabbit to get the runs. Keep all treats in moderation. For a more detailed rundown of feeding treats, click here.

Fresh water should be available to rabbits at all times. Do not rely on moist treats to provide enough water for a rabbit. On hot days, check the water level at least twice a day, and it is a good idea to replace it with cool water when you check the level. Many rabbits will drink more out of a bowl on hot days than they will out of a water bottle. If the water is frozen, even if the rabbit can lick or chew on the ice, replace the ice with fresh water. Ice does not provide enough liquid for a rabbit.

The amount of feed provided depends on the age and the size of the rabbit.

Birth to three weeks: Mother's milk

Three weeks to weaning (6 to 8 weeks): Mother's milk and unlimited pellets and hay. This is a very delicate transitional time. Introducing any treats can cause weaning enteritis, which can be deadly to kits. We like to have rabbit-safe probiotics on hand for any problems during this age.

Eight weeks to twelve weeks: Unlimited pellets and hay. Some kits will also experience stress enteritis similar to weaning enteritis at this age.

Twelve weeks to adulthood (6 to 8 months, depending on the breed)): One ounce of feed per pound of body weight is the norm. However, some rabbits have higher or lower metabolisms, and not all feeds are of the same quality. If the rabbit feels a little thin, increase the feed. If the rabbit feels a little fat, decrease the feed. Provide a good-sized handful to unlimited amounts of hay each day. Small amounts of safe vegetables and fruit may be given daily if the rabbit is used to it. If not, start with a small piece of one type of vegetable or fruit. Work your way up until the rabbit can handle that. Then you can introduce another type.